A legitimate moving company will have a USDOT number you can look up in 30 seconds, a written estimate before any money changes hands, and a physical address you can verify. If any of those three things are missing, walk away — no matter how good the price looks. After 35 years running moving crews across the country, those are the non-negotiables we still live by.
Why choosing the wrong mover is so expensive
A bad hire doesn't just cost you money — it can cost you your furniture, your deposit, and weeks of your life fighting a damage claim. We've seen customers lose thousands of dollars to companies that looked professional online but had no real license, no real insurance, and no real intention of honoring their quote. The good news: every red flag is visible before you sign, if you know what to look for.
Step 1: Verify the license before you do anything else
For any move that crosses a state line, your mover is required by federal law to be registered with the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) and hold a valid USDOT number. You can search the FMCSA's free database at safer.fmcsa.dot.gov in under a minute.
For local (intrastate) moves, licensing is regulated by your state's DOT or Public Utilities Commission. Requirements vary, but most states require a state-issued license or permit. Ask the company for their state license number and look it up.
What to check on FMCSA:
- Active operating authority (status should say "ACTIVE")
- No pattern of serious safety violations
- Registered business address matches what they told you
If a company can't give you a USDOT number, or gives you one that doesn't match their business name in the FMCSA database, stop there. You can read more about exactly what federal rules require movers to disclose in our guide on what FMCSA rules actually require movers to tell you.
Step 2: Confirm they carry real insurance — not just valuation
Every licensed interstate mover is required to offer two types of valuation coverage: Released Value (free, but only pays $0.60 per pound) and Full Value Protection (additional cost, covers repair or replacement). Neither of these is the same as commercial liability insurance, which protects your home, floors, and doorways during the move itself.
Ask the company directly:
- Do you carry general liability insurance? (Typically $1M+ for reputable companies)
- Do you carry cargo insurance? (Covers your belongings in transit)
- Can you provide a certificate of insurance? (Any legitimate company can email this same-day)
If they hesitate or say their "valuation coverage" is the same as insurance, they're either confused or misleading you. Our guide on moving valuation vs. insurance breaks down exactly what each one actually covers.
Step 3: Get a written, itemized estimate — in person or via video
A reputable mover will not give you a final binding estimate over the phone based on a bedroom count. They'll either send someone to walk through your home or conduct a thorough video survey. Any company that skips this step and then locks in a price is setting you up for a surprise bill.
Binding vs. non-binding: which should you ask for?
| Estimate type | What it means | Risk level |
|---|---|---|
| Binding | Final price locked in; can't go higher (with some exceptions) | Low — you know your total upfront |
| Non-binding | Estimated price; final bill based on actual weight | Medium — bill can go up, but only by 10% above estimate (FMCSA rule) |
| Binding not-to-exceed | Price can only go down if actual weight is less | Lowest — best of both worlds on long-distance |
For long-distance moves, push hard for a binding or binding not-to-exceed estimate. For local hourly moves, understand exactly what the hourly rate includes — travel time, truck fee, fuel surcharge — before you agree. Our full breakdown of binding vs. non-binding moving estimates explains every scenario.
Step 4: Research their reputation the right way
Don't just count stars. Look at how a company responds to negative reviews on verified review platforms — that tells you more about their culture than a five-star average. Specifically look for:
- Pattern of damage complaints — one broken item in five years is normal; five in six months is not
- Hostage-load complaints — movers who hold furniture until customers pay above the estimate (this is illegal under FMCSA rules)
- Generic, undated five-star reviews — often a sign of manipulation
- Owner responses to complaints — professional, specific responses are a good sign; defensive or dismissive ones aren't
Also search the company's name plus "USDOT" and "complaint" on the FMCSA Safety and Fitness Electronic Records (SAFER) system. Serious violations are public record.
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Step 5: Ask these five questions before you sign anything
We've been on the other side of this conversation thousands of times. The companies worth hiring will answer all five without hesitation.
- What is your USDOT number, and are you licensed for my specific move type? (Local companies often aren't authorized for interstate moves.)
- Will you be moving my belongings yourself, or will you broker it to another company? (Brokers are legal but must disclose that they don't own the trucks. Ask who the actual carrier will be.)
- What happens if my delivery is delayed? (Long-distance movers are required to give you a delivery window in writing.)
- How do you handle damage claims, and what's your typical resolution timeline? (Under FMCSA rules, they must acknowledge a claim within 30 days and resolve it within 120 days.)
- What additional fees might appear on my final bill? (Stairs, long carries, elevator waits, bulky-item surcharges — these should be disclosed upfront.)
Our post on 10 questions to ask before hiring a moving company has the full list if you want to go deeper.
What legitimate movers always have in writing
Before you hand over a deposit, you should have all of the following in hand:
- Order for Service — a written agreement listing pickup date, delivery window, and agreed services
- Bill of Lading — the legal contract for the move (do not sign a blank one)
- Inventory sheet — a numbered list of everything being loaded
- Written estimate — binding or non-binding, clearly labeled
- FMCSA "Your Rights and Responsibilities When You Move" booklet — required by law for interstate moves
If any of these are missing on moving day, that's a serious red flag. You have the right to refuse service until the paperwork is complete.
What a typical range of costs tells you about a company's legitimacy
Wildly low quotes are almost always a sign of either a bait-and-switch or an unlicensed operator cutting corners on insurance. Here's what legitimate movers typically charge in 2026:
| Move type | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Local move, 2-bedroom (2–4 hours) | $400 – $1,200 |
| Local move, 4-bedroom (6–8 hours) | $900 – $2,500 |
| Long-distance, 1,000 miles, 2-bedroom | $2,500 – $5,000 |
| Long-distance, 1,000 miles, 4-bedroom | $5,000 – $10,000+ |
A quote that's 40–50% below these ranges should make you ask hard questions. You can see a full breakdown in our 2026 US moving cost guide.
When you're ready to compare real companies with verified credentials, browse licensed movers on our directory or search movers by state to find options near you.
Frequently asked questions
How do I check if a moving company is licensed?
For interstate moves, go to safer.fmcsa.dot.gov and search by company name or USDOT number. The record will show their operating authority status, registered address, and any safety violations. For local-only movers, contact your state's DOT or PUC for the applicable license lookup tool.
What's the difference between a moving broker and a moving company?
A moving broker takes your booking and sells it to a third-party carrier — they don't own trucks or employ the movers. Brokers are legal under FMCSA rules but must clearly disclose that they're brokers, not carriers, before you sign. Always ask who the actual carrier will be and verify that company's USDOT number separately.
How much should a moving company deposit be?
Reputable movers typically ask for 10–25% of the estimated total as a deposit, or sometimes a flat fee of $100–$300. Deposits over 25–33% of the estimate are a red flag, and any company asking for full payment upfront before the move is a serious warning sign.
Can a mover charge me more than the written estimate?
For interstate moves under a non-binding estimate, your mover can charge you up to 110% of the original estimate (the "110% rule" under FMCSA regulations) — but not more, even if actual weight is higher. Under a binding estimate, the price is fixed. For local hourly moves, the final bill is based on actual hours worked, so the estimate is always an approximation.
What should I do if the mover demands more money at delivery?
This tactic — sometimes called a "hostage load" — is illegal for interstate moves under FMCSA regulations. If a mover refuses to unload until you pay an amount above your binding estimate, you can file a complaint with FMCSA at nccdb.fmcsa.dot.gov. Document everything, take photos of the truck and paperwork, and call FMCSA's hotline at 1-888-368-7238.
How do I compare moving quotes fairly?
Get at least three written estimates from different companies for the same scope of work. Make sure each quote lists the same services (packing, stairs, long carry, etc.) and the same move date. A quote that looks cheaper may exclude items the others include — always read the line items, not just the total. Our guide to reading a moving estimate line by line walks through every charge you might see.
If you want a second opinion or just don't know where to start, check out verified mover reviews on our directory, or chat with Robert, our AI moving guide, at majesticmovingcompanies.com. He can help you figure out what questions to ask and which type of mover fits your specific move.
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