How to Vet a Mover's License and Insurance Before Moving Day
A legitimate interstate mover must hold an active USDOT number and FMCSA operating authority — both are public record and verifiable in under five minutes at no cost. For in-state moves, the rules vary by state, but most require a state PUC or DOT license that is equally easy to look up. If a mover can't or won't provide these numbers before you sign, walk away.
We've been running moving crews for 35+ years. In that time we've seen customers lose thousands of dollars — and entire households of furniture — to unlicensed operators. The checks below take about ten minutes total. They're the same ones we'd run ourselves if we were hiring a stranger to touch everything we own.
Why licensing and insurance actually matter for your move
A mover without proper licensing has no regulatory oversight. FMCSA (the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration) can't investigate a complaint against an unregistered carrier, because that carrier doesn't exist in their system. State agencies face the same wall.
Insurance is the other half of the equation. Even a licensed mover who drops your couch is only legally required to pay 60 cents per pound under the default "released value" protection — which means a 50-lb flat-screen TV gets you $30 in compensation. Without at least confirming what coverage exists, you have no idea what you'd actually recover. Our full guide to moving valuation vs. insurance coverage explains the difference between the two in plain language.
Step 1: Get the USDOT number and MC number before anything else
For any move that crosses a state line, federal law requires movers to carry:
- A USDOT number — issued by the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration
- An MC (Motor Carrier) number — authorizes them to haul household goods for hire
Ask the mover for both numbers at your first contact. Any reputable company will recite them without hesitation — they're printed on the side of their trucks. If a salesperson fumbles, says "I'll have to look that up," or gives you a vague answer, that's a red flag worth taking seriously. See our post on moving scams and how to spot a fraudulent mover for the full pattern of behavior these operators follow.
Step 2: Look up the mover in the FMCSA database (takes 2 minutes)
The FMCSA Mover Registration Search lives at protectyourmove.gov — the official federal consumer tool. You can also search directly at safer.fmcsa.dot.gov.
What to check:
| Field | What you want to see |
|---|---|
| Operating authority status | Active — not revoked, suspended, or pending |
| Cargo insurance on file | Yes — minimum $5,000 required by federal rule |
| Household goods authority | Authorized for HHG |
| Insurance/bond expiration | Future date, not expired |
| Safety rating | Satisfactory or unrated (not Unsatisfactory or Conditional) |
If the authority shows "Revoked" or the cargo insurance shows "None on file," stop there. Federal regulation 49 CFR Part 387 sets the minimum insurance requirements for interstate carriers; a revoked carrier is operating illegally.
Step 3: Check state licensing for local and in-state moves
In-state (local) moves are regulated at the state level, not by FMCSA. Rules vary significantly:
- California: Movers need a Cal T number issued by the California Public Utilities Commission (CPUC). Check at cpuc.ca.gov.
- Texas: The TxDMV licenses household goods movers — search at txdmv.gov.
- Florida: The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS) licenses movers — search at fdacs.gov/moving.
- New York: Intrastate moves fall under the NY Department of Transportation — check at dot.ny.gov.
- All other states: Search "[your state] household goods mover license" + the state PUC or DOT to find the right database.
If you're relocating within a large metro area — say, across Chicago or between boroughs in the New York area — you still need state licensing verification even if the move never crosses a county line.
Step 4: Confirm liability and cargo insurance directly with the carrier
The FMCSA database shows whether a policy is on file. It doesn't tell you whether that policy is still active today or what it actually covers. Here's how to go deeper:
- Ask the mover for a Certificate of Insurance (COI). This is a one-page document listing the insurer, policy number, coverage limits, and expiration date. Any legitimate mover can email this in minutes.
- Call the insurance company directly — the number is on the COI — and confirm the policy is active.
- Check the coverage limits. Federal minimums are low: $5,000 cargo/$10,000 public liability for household goods. Many reputable full-service movers carry $100,000–$500,000 in cargo coverage. Ask what the limit is.
- Ask about their released value vs. full-value protection options. You should be offered both. If they only offer released value (60¢/lb), that's not illegal, but you'll want to weigh purchasing third-party moving insurance separately.
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Step 5: Cross-check their reviews and complaint history
Licensing and insurance tell you a mover is legal. Reviews and complaint history tell you whether they're actually good.
- Search the company name on the FMCSA complaint database at safer.fmcsa.dot.gov — look at the consumer complaint count relative to their shipment volume.
- Check verified mover reviews on platforms that authenticate reviewers as real customers.
- Look them up with your state Attorney General's consumer complaint database — most states publish these.
Our guide on how to read mover reviews walks through what complaint patterns actually mean and which red flags to prioritize.
What legitimate movers will and won't do
| Legitimate mover | Suspicious mover |
|---|---|
| Gives USDOT/MC number unprompted | Vague about license numbers |
| Provides COI on request | Says "we're fully insured" without documentation |
| Named company on the truck matches paperwork | Company name changes or is unfamiliar |
| Offers written binding or non-binding estimate | Quote is verbal only |
| Doesn't demand large cash deposit upfront | Demands 25–50%+ deposit before the move |
On that last point — if a mover is pressing you for a large upfront deposit alongside license confusion, read our breakdown of what a normal moving deposit looks like vs. a red flag before handing over any money.
How long does this whole process take?
Realistically, 10–15 minutes per mover if you're getting quotes from two or three companies:
- 2 min — Get USDOT/MC numbers from the mover
- 2 min — Search FMCSA database
- 3 min — Request and skim the COI
- 3 min — State license lookup (for local moves)
- 5 min — Complaint history search
That's it. If a mover fails Step 1 — won't give you their numbers — you don't need to do Steps 2–5.
When you're ready to compare vetted, licensed movers side by side, browse movers in our directory or search by your state to find verified companies near you.
Frequently asked questions
Does a USDOT number guarantee a mover is legitimate?
A USDOT number is a necessary condition, not a sufficient one. It confirms the carrier is registered with the federal government, but registration alone doesn't mean their authority is currently active or their insurance hasn't lapsed. Always check the status of their operating authority in the FMCSA database — "registered" and "authorized" are different things.
What's the minimum insurance a moving company is required to carry?
Under federal rules (49 CFR Part 387), interstate movers must carry at minimum $5,000 in cargo liability and $10,000 in bodily injury/property damage public liability. In practice, reputable movers carry significantly more — often $100,000–$500,000 in cargo coverage. For local (intrastate) moves, minimums vary by state but are typically in a similar range.
Do I need to verify a mover's license for a local move?
Yes — but through a different channel. Local movers aren't regulated by FMCSA; they're regulated by state PUCs or DOTs. Most states have an online license lookup tool. A mover who is "unlicensed" at the federal level may still be perfectly legal for in-state work, as long as they hold the required state credential.
What should I do if a mover's FMCSA status shows "revoked"?
Stop and find a different mover. A revoked operating authority means FMCSA has determined the carrier is not legally permitted to haul household goods across state lines — often because of safety violations, insurance lapses, or failure to comply with federal regulations. There's no circumstance where hiring a revoked carrier is advisable.
Can a mover use a broker's USDOT number instead of their own?
No. Brokers and carriers are registered separately with FMCSA. A broker connects you with a carrier but doesn't haul your goods themselves. The company that actually loads your truck must have its own active USDOT number and operating authority. If a mover gives you a number that turns out to belong to a broker, ask them for the actual carrier's credentials.
How do I know if the Certificate of Insurance is real?
Call the insurance company listed on the certificate — the agent or carrier's number is on the document — and ask them to confirm the policy number, coverage limits, and expiration date. This takes about two minutes and is the only way to verify a COI isn't forged or outdated. Legitimate insurers confirm this routinely; if you're stonewalled, treat the COI as unverified.
Running these checks takes less time than comparison-shopping a refrigerator, and the stakes are considerably higher. If you'd rather skip the legwork, our AI agent Robert can help you find licensed, vetted movers in your area — just head to the Majestic Moving directory and let us point you in the right direction.
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