Moving into a new-build home is meaningfully different from moving into an existing house. Before you load a single box, you need to complete a builder walk-through, confirm every utility is live, document any construction defects in writing, and understand what your warranty covers — because once you sign and move in, many builders consider the punch list closed. This checklist walks you through every stage: pre-move, moving day, and the first week after the truck leaves.
Why a New-Build Move Needs Its Own Checklist
A resale home has a history you can research. A new build is a construction project that just finished — or nearly finished. Paint may still be curing. Appliances may not be registered. The gas line might be on but the water heater still needs to be lit. Our team has 35+ years of hands-on service-provider experience, including an operator who ran a moving company for 18 years, and new-build moves came up repeatedly as the category where buyers were least prepared for what they'd find on arrival.
The stakes are also financial. Defects you don't document before move-in can be disputed by the builder as damage you caused. A methodical checklist isn't paranoia — it's protection.
Before You Schedule the Moving Truck
1. Get the Certificate of Occupancy (CO) in Hand
No CO, no move-in — full stop. The CO is issued by the local building department and confirms the home meets code and is safe to occupy. Builders sometimes pressure buyers to close before the CO is finalized. Do not move furniture into a home without one; your homeowner's insurance may not cover a loss in an unoccupied or non-compliant structure. Confirm the CO is recorded, not just applied for.
2. Complete the Pre-Settlement Walk-Through (Builder Punch List)
Schedule this 5–7 days before closing so there is time to fix issues before you move in. Bring a flashlight, a phone charger (to test every outlet), and a notepad. Work through every room methodically:
- Structure and finishes: Look for cracks in drywall at corners and door frames, paint drips, uneven grout lines, and gaps in trim.
- Doors and windows: Open and close every one. Locks, latches, and weatherstripping should all seat fully.
- Plumbing: Run every faucet, flush every toilet, check under every sink for leaks. Note water pressure.
- Electrical: Flip every switch, test every outlet, confirm GFCIs in bathrooms and kitchen trip and reset.
- HVAC: Turn on heat and cooling; confirm airflow from each vent. Get the filter size in writing.
- Appliances: Run the dishwasher through a cycle; test all burners, the oven, the refrigerator ice maker.
- Garage doors: Test with the remote and the wall button; check the auto-reverse safety sensor.
Get every defect added to a written punch list signed by the builder's rep. Photograph each item with your phone so the timestamp is embedded.
3. Confirm All Utilities Are Live Before Moving Day
New subdivisions sometimes have utilities connected at the street but not activated at the meter. Call each provider at least a week out:
| Utility | What to Confirm |
|---|---|
| Electric | Account active; meter reading recorded at closing date |
| Gas | Line open; water heater and furnace pilot lit by provider |
| Water/sewer | Account in your name; no construction hold on the meter |
| Internet/cable | Installation appointment booked — often 1–2 weeks out in new developments |
| Trash | Pickup schedule confirmed with the municipality or HOA |
For a deeper look at coordinating all of this, see our guide on how to handle utilities when you move.
4. Read Your Builder Warranty Before Closing
Most new-build warranties follow a layered structure — commonly one year on workmanship and materials, two years on mechanical systems (plumbing, electrical, HVAC), and ten years on structural defects — but terms vary by builder and state. Know what is covered, what voids coverage (often unauthorized modifications), and exactly how to submit a claim. Keep a physical copy in your moving binder alongside your other documents. If you haven't built that binder yet, building a moving binder explains exactly how to organize every quote, contract, and deadline in one place.
5. Book Your Mover Early — and Tell Them It's a New Build
New subdivisions often have unpaved or soft roads, limited turnaround space, and no established parking. Give your mover the site address, ask whether a long truck can navigate the street, and confirm whether the builder has any move-in rules (some communities require moving companies to carry a minimum liability limit or restrict move-in hours). You can find movers and check USDOT numbers in our directory — confirm a carrier's license yourself on FMCSA's search tool before you book.
Moving Day: What's Different at a New Build
Protect the Finishes — They're Brand New
New paint scuffs easily. Hardwood floors haven't been lived on. Ask your mover what they use to protect doorways and floors; good crews typically use door-frame padding and ram board or Masonite on finished floors. You can read about what movers use to protect your floors, doorways, and stairwells to know what to request.
Do a Second Walk-Through the Morning of Move-In
Walk every room before the first piece of furniture crosses the threshold. This is your last chance to document any damage the builder is responsible for versus anything that happens during the move itself. Take timestamped photos of walls, floors, and all appliances.
Track What Goes Where on Day One
In a new build you may be placing furniture in rooms you've only seen on a floor plan. Sketch a rough layout for each room in advance and tape a copy to the door so the movers know where items belong without asking you sixty times. This also prevents heavy furniture from being placed before you realize it blocks an outlet or vent. A room-by-room moving inventory checklist can double as your placement guide.
Get Appliance Serial Numbers Before They're Against the Wall
Register every builder-supplied appliance with the manufacturer on moving day, before the refrigerator and range slide into their final positions. You'll need the model and serial number, both printed on a label typically on the inside frame or back panel. Registration is required to activate most manufacturer warranties and makes service calls faster.
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The First Week After Move-In: Your New-Build Punch List Follow-Up
Day 1–2: Document Everything You Find
Even after a thorough walk-through, living in a home reveals things a static inspection misses. Mark every issue on a running list — a chip in the tile you only see in morning light, a door that swings open on its own, a bathroom fan that sounds wrong. Most builders allow a 30-day or 60-day follow-up punch list; check your contract for the exact window and submit in writing, not by phone call.
Day 3–5: Test the HVAC Through a Full Cycle
New ductwork in a new build often kicks up construction dust for the first few days. Replace the air filter after the first week (not before — you want it to catch the initial dust), and note the filter size so you can set a replacement schedule. If the system short-cycles or can't hold temperature, report it to the builder while you're still within the mechanical warranty window.
Day 5–7: Check for Settlement Cracks and Moisture
New construction settles. Small hairline cracks at window and door corners are common in the first weeks and are typically cosmetic. Wide cracks (wider than a credit card), diagonal cracks from corners, or any crack accompanied by a sticking door are worth reporting immediately. Also check under sinks and around the base of toilets for slow drips that weren't present at walk-through.
Week 1: Register With the HOA and Local Municipality
If your new build is in a community with a homeowners association, register your vehicle, get your access fob or gate code, and read the CC&Rs (covenants, conditions, and restrictions). Some HOAs restrict parking, fence heights, and exterior paint colors — violations can carry fines. Separately, contact your county assessor's office about the homestead exemption deadline for your state; in many states the window is surprisingly short.
New-Build Checklist at a Glance
| Stage | Task | Done? |
|---|---|---|
| Pre-move | Certificate of Occupancy in hand | ☐ |
| Pre-move | Builder punch list walk-through completed and signed | ☐ |
| Pre-move | All utilities confirmed live | ☐ |
| Pre-move | Builder warranty terms read and filed | ☐ |
| Pre-move | Mover booked; site access confirmed | ☐ |
| Moving day | Pre-move-in walk-through with timestamped photos | ☐ |
| Moving day | Floor and doorway protection in place | ☐ |
| Moving day | Appliances registered with manufacturers | ☐ |
| Week 1 | Follow-up punch list submitted in writing to builder | ☐ |
| Week 1 | Air filter replaced after first week | ☐ |
| Week 1 | Settlement cracks and moisture checked | ☐ |
| Week 1 | HOA registration and CC&Rs reviewed | ☐ |
| Week 1 | Homestead exemption deadline confirmed | ☐ |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I move in before the builder finishes the punch list?
You can, but it's risky. Once you take possession, distinguishing pre-existing defects from move-in damage becomes your word against the builder's. If you must move in before all items are resolved, make sure every outstanding defect is documented in writing and signed by the builder's representative before your keys are handed over.
Do I need a home inspection on a new build?
Yes — strongly consider hiring an independent inspector even though the home has passed local building inspections. Municipal inspectors check code compliance; a licensed home inspector looks for quality issues and things code doesn't cover. Schedule one before the final walk-through so you have an independent report in hand.
What if the builder won't fix something after I move in?
Start with written notice to the builder (email creates a timestamp). Most contracts require you to use the builder's dispute resolution process before escalating. If the issue falls under your state's implied warranty of habitability or the builder's express warranty, you may have legal standing. Consult a real estate attorney for anything structural.
How soon do I need to register my appliances?
Register within 30 days of move-in when possible. Many manufacturer warranties require registration within a set window to be valid, and some extended service plans won't cover unregistered units. Do it the day you move in while the serial numbers are still accessible.
Should I change the locks on a new-build home?
Yes. Construction crews, subcontractors, and sales staff may have had keys during the build process. Rekeying all exterior locks — or replacing the lock cylinders — is inexpensive and gives you complete control over who has access. Do it on or before moving day.
How do I find a mover who has experience with new-build communities?
Ask the mover directly whether they've worked in new subdivisions and whether their truck can navigate a specific road configuration. Check their USDOT number on FMCSA's search tool to confirm active registration and insurance. You can also browse mover reviews on our site to see what other customers report about how a company handles access challenges — just keep in mind we gather those reviews and don't independently verify each one. When you're ready to compare options, browse movers by state to find carriers operating in your area.
Moving into a new build is exciting — but the checklist is longer than most buyers expect. If you'd like a hand figuring out where to start, connect with Robert, our moving concierge, or find movers in your area who can walk you through the specifics of your community and move date.
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